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Mobil Travel Guide: NASCAR
Travel Planner
(Mobil
Travel Guide,
December 15, 2004)
SUNSHINE AND
URBAN SPRAWL
(Partial excerpt
of
Chapter 23,
Arizona: Phoenix International Raceway)
By
Kathy Summers
As
Arizonans continue to mow down hills, arroyos, and desert flora to
build malls and golf courses, there’s less to recognize of the old
Southwest. Roads are wider now, too—to accommodate more SUVs—and
there are more of them, so getting around the metropolitan area
takes time. Still, with more than 300 days of low humidity and warm
sunshine annually, chances are any weekend at the races will be
spectacular. Arizonans don’t bother with Daylight Saving Time—they
have all the daylight they need on year round Mountain Standard
Time, thank you.
You
won’t find much excitement around Avondale besides the races, so
head over to the
Arizona Center
in downtown Phoenix. Along with restaurants, shops, and other
activities, it’s home to
Phoenix
International Raceway
headquarters. There you’ll find the latest motorsport merchandise
and memorabilia. If there’s a NASCAR race going on, you’ll likely
see drivers on Saturday nights, making promotional appearances and
signing autographs.
You’ll find plenty to do on
Mill Avenue in
Tempe
or Fifth Avenue
in downtown Scottsdale,
and the area known as the
Camelback corridor
east of Central Avenue in Phoenix is always hopping. The dress is
casual for comfort, except in upscale Scottsdale, where a certain
element dresses to be noticed, but few restaurants require jackets
or ties.
Phoenix, Scottsdale, and Tempe bustle with culture, from the
Phoenix Art Museum, Heard Museum,
Herberger Theater Center, Symphony Hall,
and
Heritage
Square,
to
Scottsdale
Center for the Arts
and
ArtWalk,
to
Tempe Town
Lake,
and
Arizona State
University’s Gammage Auditorium.
The
Phoenix Zoo
and
Desert
Botanical Garden
are favorites with tourists. Sports fans will find something going
on at one of the professional arenas, including Phoenix Suns
basketball at
America West
Arena;
Arizona Diamondbacks baseball at
Bank One
Ballpark
(with its swimming pool and a retractable roof); Arizona Cardinals
football at
Arizona State
University’s Sun Devil Stadium
or the new
Cardinals
Stadium;
Phoenix Coyotes hockey at
Glendale Arena;
greyhound racing at
Phoenix
Greyhound Park;
and thoroughbred racing at
Turf Paradise,
among others.
You
can make like a native and golf yourself into oblivion at one of
over 275 golf courses. Or lose yourself at a hundred shopping
locations, including over a dozen 500,000 square-foot malls within a
40-mile radius.
Even
the biggest automobile fans may welcome the opportunity to get out
of their four-wheel vehicles and enjoy Arizona’s wide-open spaces on
two wheels. Thanks to nearby
Tempe’s
Bicycle Program
(20 E 6th St, 3rd floor, Tempe 85281. Phone 480/350-2775.
www.tempe.gov/bikeprogram), you can tread across more
than 150 miles of bikeways along streets and through parks. Most
major destinations provide bicycle racks, some designed by local
artists. If you get tired, city buses are equipped with bike racks
to take you back to the hotel. Several bicycle shops offer rentals
for as little as $15 per day, including free bikeway maps.
For
real drama, leave the cities behind and venture out to the
mountains, lakes, and rolling deserts. A road trip to outlying areas
proves Arizona hasn’t lost her awesome wild side, after all.
GETTING AROUND:
They say Phoenix International
Raceway (PIR), where Tom Cruise burned it up in Days of Thunder, is
the fastest 1-mile track around. The NASCAR 500
NEXTEL Cup race is the largest one-day sporting event in Arizona,
drawing almost 100,000 spectators--so driving to the track
can be dreadfully slow. To
avoid the worst traffic, get there via Vineyard Road. It takes you
into the major parking area with a right turn rather than a left
turn across traffic flow. Tune your car radio to 550 AM for traffic
updates and watch for special roadway message boards. (While you’re
at it, set a button for KXAM 1310 AM and listen to Racing Roundup,
7-9 pm live and local Monday nights.)
FROM I-10 WESTBOUND: take
Litchfield Rd Exit 128 left (south). Right (west) on Rte 85. Left
(south) on Bullard Ave. Left (east) on Vineyard Rd.
FROM AZ 202 WESTBOUND: take Estrella Pkwy Exit 128 left (south). Left (east) on Vineyard Rd.
FROM I-10 EASTBOUND: take Cotton
Ln Exit 124, right (south). Left (east) on Rte 85. Right (south) on
Estrella Pkwy. Left (east) on Vineyard Rd.
SIDEBARS:
PITPASS.
“If
you want to see your favorite racers pit, sit in the upper half of
the frontstretch grandstands,” says Billy Kann, NASCAR racer and a
Phoenix fan who takes his kids to the races. “You can see most of the racetrack from
there, and concessions and restrooms are much more accessible.” Another
reason Kann likes the frontstretch: “That part of the track is
really narrow, so it’s more exciting. When stuff happens on the
frontstretch, there’s nowhere to go, no grass or anything. The
backstretch is much easier for racers.”
ROAD FOOD.
It’s
all about bread—world-class, high carb, high comfort bread and all
that goes with bread at
Willo Bread Company
and
My Florist Café, a bakery, grocery, and restaurant run by one owner. The
best restaurants in town get their bread made here from scratch. Get
it to go, go as you are, go late with your drinking buddies, you
can’t go wrong. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Café open 6 am-midnight.
Live music. 530 W McDowell Rd, Phoenix (85003). Phone 602/254-0333.
EAT:
BABY KAY’S CAJUN KITCHEN.
2119 E
Camelback Rd, Phoenix (85016). Phone 602/955-0011.
www.babykays.com. If you
crave creole, love Louisiana crab cakes, and can’t get enough
crawfish étouffée, get your fix at Baby Kay’s. House specialties
include gumbo and jambalaya. Come here on Wednesdays during crawfish
season for crawfish boils. Otherwise, try the whole Cornish game hen
with dirty rice. Located in the Town & Country Shopping Center, in
the Camelback Corridor. Cajun menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Bar. Outdoor seating. $$
BELLA LUNA RISTORANTE.
14175 W Indian
School Rd, Goodyear (85338). Phone 623/535-4642. If you’re looking
for fresh and delicious Sicilian food come to Bella Luna. Chef/owner
Joe Billelo presents authentic Italian recipes carefully gathered
from old-world kitchens in Palermo. The zuppa and antipasti get the
green flag, and if you like veal, you’ll love the vitello alla
piccata. With the racetrack only 11 miles away, you might see a few
of the drivers quietly winding down here with their crew. Italian
menu. Lunch, dinner. Children’s menu. Reservations recommended. $$
HAROLD’S CAVE
CREEK CORRAL. 6895 E Cave Creek Rd, Cave Creek (85331). Phone 480/488-1906.
www.haroldscorral.com. Where
have all the cowboys gone? To Harold’s, where real dirt on the boots
is de rigeur. Of course, the dirt on half the chap wearing
boot-scooters is probably biker grease, but it’s a big corral, and
everybody gets along. Live music is featured Thursday through
Sunday, and Friday is all-you-can-eat fish-fry night, with Western
dance lessons following. Harold’s has a generous menu, great people
watching, Western gear hanging from the rafters, picnic
tables, and a family-friendly crowd of both locals and tourists.
Pool tables, dart boards, air hockey, and a juke box are just a few
of the ways to have fun. American menu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner,
late-night. Children’s menu. Casual attire. Reservations
recommended. Outdoor seating. $$
MI
COCINA, MI PAIS.
4221 W Bell Rd, Phoenix (85053). Phone 602/548-7900.
Lucky
for us Rosa Rosas left Ecuador for Arizona and opened the colorful,
six-table gem Mi Cocina, Mi Pais (My Kitchen, My Country). Ask Rosa
about her Ecuadorian sango de camarones (shrimp stew with a mild
peanut sauce), or her sobrebarriga Bogotana (flavorful and tender
marinated slow-cooked brisket) and she’ll tell you a charming story.
Try the
ceviches or tamales seasoned with aji chile. The food is so good—and
so cheap—you won’t believe it until you go there. South American
menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Mon. Casual attire. $
RAUL & THERESA’S MEXICAN FOOD.
519 Main (Hwy
85), Avondale (85323). Phone 623/932-1120. For authentic Mexican food served graciously and prepared
fresh daily from locally grown ingredients, stop in at Raul &
Theresa Chayrez’s restaurant, around the corner from the racetrack.
Turn right onto East Main Street from Dysart Road and look for it on
the left. Tell them we sent you, and go easy on the salsa. Mexican
menu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Children’s menu. Casual attire. $
RUBY BEET GOURMET. 628 E
Adams St, Phoenix (85004). Phone 602/258-8700.
If a
day at the races has temporarily satisfied your need for speed, Ruby
Beet Gourmet is the place to go for "slow food" served at a
leisurely pace. Located at The
Silva House, a restored 100-year-old bungalow in Heritage Square,
the setting couldn’t be more charming or the food more textured. A
popular hangout for local foodies, the menu changes often and is
limited by whatever the owners find ultra-fresh and delectable that
day. American menu. Dinner. Closed Sun-Mon. Casual attire.
Reservations recommended. $$
SEE:
ARIZONA CENTER.
455 N 3rd St,
Phoenix (85004). Phone 602/271-4000.
www.arizonacenter.com. Shop,
dine, dance, play, or chill out after the races at this downtown
open-air marketplace boasting specialty shops, kiosks, restaurants,
nightclubs, movie theaters, and more. Watch for NASCAR racer promos
on Saturday night. With 3 1/2 acres of Phoenix fun, you’ll never get
bored. Park at the corner of 5th Street and Fillmore and get your
ticket validated at the movie theater or any restaurant. (Daily;
closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25)
DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN.
1201 N Galvin
Pkwy, Phoenix (85008). Phone 480/941-1217.
www.dbg.org.
Need an alternative to the noisy crowds? Stroll these peaceful paths
and you’ll see hundreds of natural desert plants, including colorful
wildflowers and prickly cacti—a few that bloom only at night.
Interactive displays show the many ways Native Americans once used
the plants. Enjoy a relaxing lunch at the outdoor café surrounded by
blooms. Music in the Gardens features performances by local bands,
many of them jazz groups, on Friday evenings from February through
June, and Saturday evenings from October through mid-November.
(Oct-Apr: daily 8 am-8 pm; May-Sept: 7 am-8 pm; closed July 4, Dec
25)
HEARD MUSEUM.
2301 N Central
Ave, Phoenix (85004). Phone 602/252-8848.
www.heard.org.
Immerse yourself in the culture and art of the Southwest at this
internationally acclaimed Native American museum. The
130,000-square-foot attraction has unique Native American Art and
exhibits in ten separate galleries along with a working-artist
studio. Its collection of 32,000 works includes3,600 pieces of
contemporary Native-American fine art, 437 historic Hopi Kachina
dolls, more than 500pieces of important Navajo and Zuni jewelry, and
90prize-winning Navajo textiles. The Heard Museum also provides
artist demonstrations, music and dance performances, and hands-on
activities. (Daily 9:30 am-5 pm; closed holidays)
CRUISE NIGHT AT SCOTTSDALE PAVILIONS.
9175 E Indian Bend Rd, Scottsdale, (85250). Phone 480/905-9111.
While
Scottsdale Pavilions may be one of the largest and most attractive
shopping centers in the country, with its gorgeous contemporary
Southwestern architecture and spectacular water features, Saturday
nights bring more people to the parking lot than the shops. They
come for the hotrods: muscle cars, custom cars, street rods, antique
roadsters, vintage trucks, motorcycles, even a few finely-tuned
imports. Order a milkshake at McDonald’s and groove to old car
tunes while you ogle the chrome with this informally gathered group
of gear heads. Free. Starts about 5:30 pm generally winds down
around 10 pm.
MCCORMICK-STILLMAN
RAILROAD PARK. 7301 E
Indian Bend Rd, Scottsdale (85250). Phone 480/312-2312.
www.therailroadpark.com. The
Railroad Park is a great place to take kids, or anyone who loves
trains. Take a ride around this 30-acre city park aboard the
Paradise and Pacific Railroad, a 5/12-scale reproduction of a
Colorado narrow-gauge railroad. Then head over to the 1950s
carousel, or to one of two well-equipped playgrounds. Railroad
aficionados won’t want to miss the 1928 Roald Amundsen Pullman Car,
used by four US presidents: Herbert Hoover, Franklin D. Roosevelt,
Harry S. Truman, and Dwight D. Eisenhower. The park serves hot dogs,
yogurt, and soft drinks. (Daily; closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25) $
TEMPE
TOWN LAKE. 80 W Rio Salado Pkwy, Tempe (85281). Phone 480/350-8625.
www.tempetownlake.com. Tempe
Town Lake on the Rio Salado, near the Mill Avenue shopping and
dining district, is a 224-acre, 2-mile waterway that charters
cruises and rents rowboats, pedal boats, kayaks, and canoes. It also
hosts a variety of events and activities. The nicely renovated 1931
Tempe Beach Park has shaded picnic groves, sandy play areas, a
grassy amphitheater, and the popular Splash Playground water park
(closed Sept to spring). Take the tour, or take advantage of the 4
1\2 miles of shoreline for walking or people-watching.
STAY:
THE
WIGWAM RESORT AND GOLF CLUB. 300 Wigwam E Blvd, Litchfield Park (85340). Phone
623/935-3811; toll-free 888/382-8610, 800/327- 0396; fax
623/935-3737.
www.wigwamresort.com. Once a haughty hangout for Goodyear Tire Company honchos, the
upscale Wigwam now welcomes road warriors here to see the rubber
meet the road at the racetrack, a mere 11 miles away. Whitewashed
wood furniture, slate floors, Mexican ceramic tiles, and traditional
Santa Fe touches are so thoughtfully designed you’ll feel like
you’re walking into a rich relative’s Mexican mansion. The resort
has three award-winning golf courses, nine tennis courts, two pools,
a waterslide, fitness center, spa, and fine restaurants. Outside
tours and activities are arranged with frequent pickups. 331 rooms, 2
story. Pets accepted, some restrictions; fee. Check-in 4 pm,
check-out noon. Four restaurants, bar. Children’s activity center.
Fitness room. Two outdoor pools, whirlpools. Golf. Tennis. Airport
transportation available. Business center. $$$
HAMPTON INN & SUITES, GOODYEAR.
2000 N
Litchfield Rd, Goodyear (85338)Phone 623/536-1313; toll-free
800/426-7866.
www.hamptoninn.com. With a basketball court on the property, the
Palm Valley
Golf Course next door, and the racetrack only 10 miles away, this one makes
the short list. It blocks reservations around NASCAR dates, though.
Owned by the same company as the Wingate Inn, it has the NASCAR
contract to reserve rooms for racers. Keep in mind, if one of the
racers’ family or crew cancels, last minute rooms become available.
Romano’s Macaroni Grill next door offers room service. 110 rooms, 3
story. Pets accepted. Complimentary continental breakfast. Check-in
3 pm, check-out noon. Laundry services. Fitness room, spa. Pool. $
BEST WESTERN CENTRAL PHOENIX INN & SUITES.
1100 N Central Ave, Phoenix (85004). Phone 602/252-2100; toll-free
888/676-2100.
www.bestwestern.com.
Recently renovated, this full-service hotel is the only mid-priced
hotel in downtown Phoenix. It’s within staggering distance to city
nightlife and NASCAR promos at
The Arizona
Center. You’ll also have quick access to cultural activities without
paying to park. 106 rooms, 8 story. Complimentary continental
breakfast. Check-in 3 pm, check-out 11 am. Laundry services.
Restaurant, bar. Fitness room, spa. Pool. Airport transportation
available. $
BEST WESTERN INN SUITES HOTEL & SUITES.
1615 E
Northern Ave, Phoenix (85020). Phone 602/997-6285; toll-free
800/937-8376.
www.bestwestern.com.
If you like to hike, this location puts you at the foot of the most
popular family hiking spots in Phoenix:
Squaw Peak
Mountain and
Camelback
Mountain. You’ll be within minutes of the action along the Camelback
Corridor, and not far from downtown Phoenix and Scottsdale. 109
rooms, 2 story. Pets accepted, some restrictions, fee. Complimentary
continental breakfast. Check-in 2 pm, check-out noon. Laundry
services. Fitness room, spa. Pool. $
SIDE TRIP:
Grand Canyon
National Park,
Williams, AZ. US 93 and AZ 169, Williams (Coconino County) (86023).
Approximately 50 miles N on US 180 (AZ 64) to the South Rim. Phone:
928/638-7888.
www.nps.gov/grca.
The entire Grand Canyon National Park—all 1,904 square miles of
it—has 277 cool miles of Colorado River running through it. A
breathtaking 18 miles divides the north and south rims at the widest
part. The South Rim alone runs 1,373 jagged miles between Lake Mead
and Lee’s Ferry, with elevations averaging 7,000 feet. While it’s
just too big to fully comprehend, this 6-million-year-old hole in
the ground is certainly worth a glimpse.
Begin on the west end of the South Rim, catching the shuttle bus to
Hermits Rest. Look for the old mission bell hanging from the stone
arch. Then, hike the South Rim Trail 2 miles back to Grand Canyon
Village. Stop for lunch at El Tovar Hotel, which sits just 50 feet
from the edge of the cliff. After lunch, hike a couple more miles to
Mather Point.
Or drive 26 miles east from Grand Canyon Village to the 70-foot-high
Desert View Watchtower. Climb the tower stairs to see Hopi artist
Fred Kabotie’s painted murals. From the top of the tower, you can
see Comanche Point. More adventurous hikers can blaze their own wild
trail to Comanche Point, 7 miles north of Desert View and the park’s
east entrance.
Walk the trails, fly over by plane or helicopter, travel down by
mule, or raft the river. Camp at the rim or the base and watch for
raptors with 9-foot wingspans, or any of at least 287 birds, 76
mammals, 35 reptiles, and six amphibians. Even a short drive along
the rim will change your perception of wide open spaces forever.
Spring and fall are the best seasons for hiking. Check weather
information on the Grand Canyon Web site
www.nps.gov/grca/grandcanyon/weather.htm, or by calling
928/638-7888. For trip planning information, write: Trip Planner,
Grand Canyon National Park, PO Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ (86023).
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Phoenix-based freelance writer Kathy Summers has turned a few fast
phrases for national magazines. As a perk of writing this chapter,
she also turned a few quick laps in her husband’s Mustang at PIR,
giving her a new perspective on the mysteries of men and motor
sports (and the true meaning of spin-control).
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